FBA for empire-style top

I have started sewing for myself again! The last few months have been quite intense work-wise, and for relaxation I have mostly been sewing miniature clothes for my doll's house people.

My first full-size sewing project is an empire-style top/camisole from New Look 6558. This style is supposedly flattering to my full hourglass figure.




I am having a devil of a time getting it to fit though. I couldn't find an online tutorial on doing a full bust adjustment on this type of top, so just made it up as I went along. The third method seemed to be the most successful, and I decided to illustrate my steps. (To see larger size images of the steps, look at my Picasa web album here.)

I started with a size 16, based on my high bust measurement (1). I needed to move the bust apex about 1 cm towards the underarm seam (2), and the pattern piece had to be lengthened by 8 cm to fit over my bust (according to measurement from shoulder down over bust apex) (3).


Next, I slashed the pattern through the existing dart to the apex, and also from the centre front, midway between the 8-cm extension (4). Then I rotated the dart to close up the extension on the centre front, making it the length it was before my changes (5). This made the underbust dart larger (6).

I decided to use a second dart to reduce the underarm seam to its original length. I drew in a dart from the extension points to the bust apex (7). For the final "real" darts, I measured points 1.5" from the bust apex and drew in the new dart lines (8).



Here is a comparison of the original and the adjusted patterns:


The red lines on the brown paper pattern show the actual curved stitching line of the dart.

3 comments:

  1. hilde said

    Thanks for this!! I'm quite new to the FBA and I've been wondering how to do this as I definitely need the adjustment.


    Tina said

    I hope it works, Hilde! I discovered a lot of FBA info I printed out last year - I'll add a post with links soon.


    Serenity Love Sincere Peace Earth said

    I'm late, but I adore this method!


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