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I started cutting out my second Danglez DB4 bra today, with some modifications. My first bra was made in size 80G, but the cups were a bit too small, so this time I'm doing an 80H. I feel that I am slowly learning how different techniques and fabrics affect the fit of bras, now that I am making bras using the same pattern but different fabrics every time.

For this bra, I am cutting all the pieces twice from the same lycra and with the stretch going in the same direction. I am basing this on the following evidence: My most comfortable bra at the moment is the Sewy Rebecca 80H made from slightly stretchy lace with medium powernet lining (max stretch in opposite direction), therefore slightly stretchy (photo left). The shape it gives me is however a bit "boxy" with the bust apex too much to the side. My previous Rebecca used stretchier unlined stretch lace in the top cup. It doesn't give enough support but I prefer the rounder shape it gives, with the bust apex more normal-looking.



My favourite bra based on shape alone is the Danglez DB4 (photo right). When I used a non-stretch lining, the shape was awful, but once I removed the lining, the shape improved dramatically. The single layer of lycra that is left doesn't give enough support though. My conclusion: a stretchier lining will be better, giving more support than lycra or lace alone, but a better shape than non-stretch or opposite direction lining. If this doesn't work, I'll try lycra going in the opposite direction in the next bra.

Another thing I noticed with my most recent Rebecca (all-over tulle lace, left) was that I find the double-topstitched underwire channelling uncomfortable. I didn't realise this until I saw that both bras in which the underwire hurt me below the cups had double topstitching, while the more comfortable ones had only one line of topstitching.




The third change I want to make is to use wider elastic for the bottom of the bra band. I used narrower elastic on the Danglez No. 1 and it definitely doesn't fit as well around my torso as the wider elastic, giving a much more noticeable "bra line".

I'm using a mink-coloured shiny lycra for this bra - I bought an entire metre of it recently, as it dyes very well. Maybe I'll make some matching panties!