Danglez bra: Day 1
Today, I started tracing and cutting out my Danglez bra. I "traced" the pattern onto thin card using dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel. The pattern sheet is multisized, but every size is drawn in a different colour, which makes it easy to trace the right parts.
As this is a European pattern, I had to add seam allowances to almost all the edges. I followed the seam allowance widths suggested in Michaela of Elingeria's English instructions for the Sewy Rebecca bra. (You can download them by clicking Downloads above.) These are: 6 mm on all seams, except the seam around the cup, which should be 10 mm. This makes it very easy to sew the seams using a quarter-inch patchwork foot. The 10 mm cup seam makes applying underwire channelling much easier. For all edges that will be trimmed with narrow picot elastic (underarm edge and top of bra back), I added 10 mm. For the bra band I am using a slightly wider picot elastic, and here I added 13 mm seam allowances. I added no seam allowance on the curve at the back where the bra strap attaches, and also where the hook-and-eye closure goes. I hope this is right!
I always trace around my patterns on the fabric before cutting out with a rotary cutter. The bra bridge and all three cup parts are cut out once in lycra and once in non-stretch bra interfacing (that mesh-like stuff). I also cut out the bra back in lycra and powernet for more support. Strange to think that this jumble of parts will soon be a bra!
This time, I am trying a trick I learnt on the zelflingeriemaken forum: cutting the lycra pieces a few millimetres smaller all round than the lining pieces. When sewing, you stretch the lycra to fit the lining edge. This prevents unsightly folds in the lycra when you're wearing the bra. Here you can see the lycra bridge covered by the lining bridge, showing the slight overlap.
Cutting out didn't take me as long as I expected - possibly because I am doing an all-lycra bra, so no fiddly lace bits with matching to do, and fewer decisions to make! So I have already sewn the bridge and band pieces together (edgestitching next to the seamline on both sides) and sewn the top of the cups to their linings. Maybe I'll have a little more time tonight, seeing that we've watched all our DVDs already.