Lace bra finished

I finished my lace bra yesterday. It looks pretty, although the fit isn't the greatest. I knew that before I started working on it again, so I do not feel too disappointed. I am getting better with the finer points of bra-making - I didn't have to refer to the instructions so often. It helps to make about one a week! The straps were my own invention. I have never found detailed information on making custom straps, so just did my own thing after looking at lots of photographs. I would make them less tapering next time though; the part across my shoulder is a bit too narrow. I think next time I will also add a layer of padding under the lace for more comfort.

Here you can see the bra on me. The real test, I always think! A bra can look pretty lying on the duvet, but it has to work ON you. I wanted to try using the lace edging on the bra band, because it always looks so pretty, and I cut the top cup edge and shoulder straps so the edging would be continuous. I don't know if I'll do the lace bottom edge again, though. It feels a bit scratchy.  You can also see on the left side of the photo (click to zoom in) that the lace part "bubbles" and does not lie flat. I think this is because I have (again!) used non-stretch lining behind the lycra, and this is preventing the breast from filling the cup completely. Maybe I should do some surgery here?

Here is a close-up of the shoulder strap during construction. I cut the strap from lace and non-stretch lining (the kind you use for behind the centre front "bridge" piece). I basted them together and sewed the whole thing to the top of the cup. Then I applied picot elastic to the top edge of the bra and cut it long enough so I could apply it to the outside edge of the strap as well. Then I cut another piece and sewed it to the inside edge of the strap with a three-step zigzag.

More about the anatomy of this bra:
  • Bottom and side cup pieces cut in lace, lycra and non-stretch lining
  • Top cup cut in lace and stretchy lining (so it would not be too see-through)
  • Centre front cut in lace (with centre seam) and non-stretch lining
  • Side piece of the bra band cut from lace and non-stretch-lining (see-through!)
  • Bra back cut from lycra and medium powernet (and I see the powernet needs to be smaller because it is wrinkling when I have it on)

I used a lot of machine-basting and also some hand-basting during construction to hold all the layers together. I still followed the standard Sewy Rebecca method of sandwiching the seam between the outer fabric and the lining, but I am thinking of using plain seams next time - I don't like the definite ridge I get with topstitching with this method. I recently saw a bra with lining made by Sandra using flat seams topstitched on both sides, and it looks very neat!



  1. Sigrid said

    Very nice fit from the picture. I like your shoulder straps. Great idea.
    And welcome to blogland!

    Tina said

    I have tried wearing this bra again recently and it still doesn't fit. I think this is mainly due to using non-stretch linings in the bottom and side cup. I will try using tulle lace again because it is so pretty, but will try to adapt my pattern to the stretch factor before cutting ot.

    Ted Juhl said

    You’re good in sewing lace bra, Tina. I really like the embroidery design of the straps; they are neatly and artistically done. For how long have you been designing bras? Aside from lace bras, do you also have other designs? Can you post some pictures of them here?

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